Mexico by the Glass
By Dick Avery; Photos by Janet Avery
August 15, 2008 San Miguel de Allende

Monte Xanic: The quest for excellence

In the late eighties, a group of Mexican businessmen sat around sipping some of the good juice, listening to a presentation about forming a new and different kind of winery. The concept was to challenge the stereotype of Mexican wines as being just so much “plonk” (inferior product).

The very professional presentation was enthusiastically received—that is, until the gentlemen were cordially invited to make a financial commitment to the project. Suddenly, the room became very quiet. Conversation, which up to that point had been lively, came to a screeching halt.

“A winery? I have to put up how much? You’ve got to be kidding! Don’t you read the trade journals? The Mexican wine industry is down the tubes! Over a hundred grape growers have disappeared!” Of the group, only Manuel Castro and Eric Hagsater raised their hands. Their goal—to make world-class Mexican wines—was considered slightly insane. The wine culture was, at that time, practically nonexistent. Most people favored imported wines and there was little promise of any short-term financial gain.

Unfazed by the negativity, the two men founded a partnership with three other wine enthusiasts. They recruited Hans Backoff, an executive trained at the University of California at Davis in the fruit concentrate business, who had extensive knowledge in wine production and became their first winemaker. He instituted a style centered around low-yield, high-intensity vinification methods maximizing balance and flavors. The grape clusters were hand selected to obtain quality standards. The most modern equipment was installed, including a rotary fermentor used for color extraction, a rare piece of technology in the Valle de Guadalupe. New French oak barrels were purchased every year. Wines aged while listening to Mozart. Backoff explains, “It all kept the workers happy and it can’t hurt the grapes.”

As things began to percolate in the late eighties, a name was needed for the new venture. They agreed an “X” was needed to give the name a Mexican flair. One member of the partnership suggested “Xanic,” the name of his eldest daughter and a word in a Cora Indian dialect meaning “the flower that blooms after the first rains.” The Coras must have been a people of few words. Since their winery was situated on a hill, the name “Monte” was added. The first vintage was kicked off in 1988, but not sold; instead it was enjoyed by the five founding families. The following year, the first commercial vintage produced a whopping 500 cases that they were able to sell for the equivalent of US$20 per bottle. Needless to say, that price was not even remotely competitive at that time. That experience convinced the partners that quality sells more than quantity and that word-of-mouth recommendations create more sales than conventional advertising. They were off and running.

Today, Monte Xanic cultivates about 75 hectares (185 acres) and produces 42,000 cases annually of a broad array of 10 wine varietals and 14 different products, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab-Franc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. To ensure and maintain high quality, the winery’s goal is to not exceed 50,000 cases annually.

Their wines have won numerous medals in international wine fairs and competitions. The Chardonnay took the bronze at the 2000 Challenge International du Vin in Blaye-Bourg in Bordeaux, while the 1995 Cab took the gold and the Civart Orix d’Excellence award. Tasting through the line, the impression Monte Xanic makes is a winery with a definite Bordeaux slant. I thought their reds were a nice balance between a more fruit-driven, California style, and the more restrained, structured, well-oaked Bordeaux offerings.

Like many of the Valle’s wineries, the reds are the stars here. Still, their Sauvignon Blanc “Kristal” with honeysuckle and citrus flavors is delicious and a great “food wine.” Their Chenin Blanc/Colombard blend with hints of cinnamon and honey won a silver medal in the Long Beach, California, wine competition. Both are stand-outs and excellent bargains! 

This year, Monte Xanic celebrates its twentieth anniversary. The partners are as totally committed to excellence and strengthening Mexico’s wine culture as ever. They say, “We are creating our own history here.”

Dick Avery is head sipper at VinoClubSMA, a wine club devoted to the enjoyment of “boutique” Mexican wine through free tastings. He can be reached at vinoclubsma@gmail.com. Visit the website at www.vinoclubsma.com. 

House & Garden Tour
By Jennifer Hamilton

Old silver, a hill-climbing house, mysterious Gaudiesque gem
House & Garden Tour
Sun, Aug 17, noon
Biblioteca Pública
Insurgentes 25
US$15 or 150 pesos
Breakfast at Café Santa Ana starting at 9am



1. The owners spent eight months building this home to their requirements: generous indoor space and plenty of land for their animals. Large gardens surround the property, with an unusual fountain in the stretch of garden facing north. A large solar-heated pool is in frequent use, as is a wood-burning pizza oven built outside the kitchen. The huge two-story living room has nichos built under the staircase and the wall surrounding the fireplace, painted a luscious shade of Indio red, contains favorite pieces of artwork. The large kitchen has granite countertops, wood cabinetry and a breakfast area and office. An antique chandelier made from old silver and glass brought here from Missouri hangs over the dining table. The room shares space with a seating area which houses a large entertainment center. Upstairs are an office and master bedroom suite with walk-in closets, a wood-burning fireplace and ceiling spotlights. 


2. Situated high off the street entrance, this house climbs up a hill in a way, and you walk up a narrow pathway filled with plants and bougainvillea. Furnishings and colorful accoutrements are very Mexican in style and feel. The sizable living room is cozy and bright, with old tiled floors and a corner glassed-in cabinet filled with ancient religious ornaments dominated by a beautifully carved Christ figure. An old paneled wood piece is painted with angels lit by candles. Outside a lovely garden is filled with plants, an unusual fountain and a caracol staircase which leads to the master bedroom, which is painted in soft lavender and furnished with a stunning iron four-poster bed, a blue and green painted wood-burning fireplace and a small patio for relaxation. One can see views to the west and the domes of Las Monjas from the rooftop garden, an ideal spot for entertaining under its partially covered seating area surrounding a large table, fireplace topped with plants, a barbecue pit and refrigerator. 

3. This mysterious gem is an enticing “Gaudiesque” home built on a narrow street in Centro. The exterior is over 300 years old and visitors are struck by the jungle-like garden filled with drought-resistant plants and flowers surrounded by the softly curving structures of the main house and casita. Staircases lead to the second floor, with small stones painstakingly set in concrete by local craftsmen. Two captivating ponds with flat-stoned waterfalls were built on opposing walls. Everything is softly undulating, curved, waved and sensual, accented with colorful rugs, artwork and folk pieces. The granite countertops in the kitchen are curved, with a dining area outside facing the garden below. The sala and dining rooms have wood strip and beamed ceilings, flat slate floors and a stone fireplace built with small pebbles and whimsical artwork. The spacious rooftop offers a 360° vista.